Highway 118

Alpine to the Basin in Big Bend National Park

These unique Road Logs are free to customers and are available at Newell-Gulf Service Stations west of the Pecos. They cover most of the highways in West Texas.

0.0 At the signal light in Alpine. El. 4485. Pop. 5200. Be sure to fill with gasoline before you start. It’s 78 miles from town to the next station. Fill at the Gulf Servicenter a block west of the signal light, or at Sul Ross Gulf Station two blocks east of the Hwy. 118 intersection. They helped make this log possible.

Record your mileage here and add it to the figures in the margin to get your speedometer reading at any point. Allow some mileage variation. Speedometers do vary and tire wear and inflation make a difference. Head east on Hwy. 90 from the signal light.

0.4 Turn right on Hwy. 118.

1.5 Brewster is the largest county in the largest unfrozen state in the U.S., 6208 Sq. Mi., larger than Delaware and Connecticut combined. 128 mi. N to S and 88 mi. E to W. Elevation from 1700 ft. to 7835 ft. If you eliminate Alpine there’s about 4 sq. miles for each person and you’ll see many of them today - the miles that is. Average ranch size, 23,356 acres.

2.5 To appreciate this country completely there’s no substitute for several years study of geology but let’s try five minutes anyway. The rocks of the area are either Igneous which means formed from molten magma which came up from below, or Sedimentary which means laid down under water, usually an ocean. The igneous rocks are either intrusives, which intruded other rocks from below, solidified and were later on exposed by erosion, or lava flows which poured out in sheets on the surface, or ash which blew out of volcanoes into the air, solidified into small particles and settled to earth.

Some of the geographical features of the area are due to rock folding or to faults where the strata has fractured and one side has moved up or down compared to the other side. Most of the relief features are cause by inequalities in resistance of various rocks to erosion. Igneous rocks are generally harder, especially intrusives which often stand out as peaks, and lava flows which form hard caps for mesas. We’ll point out examples of all of these features as you travel south. In fact, Big hill ahead of you, El. 5300 ft. on the highway, and the cliffs to your right are both erosional remains of lava flows.

7.0 High point to the left is Mr. Ord. El. 6814 ft. It is capped with a lava flow. Scarp slope to the left and dip slope to the right. There are caves on the limestone slopes under the lava, a favorite hangout of mountain lions as much as 8 ft. long. There are several radio communications relay stations on top.

10.2 This is a divide. El. 5360 ft., over a mile high. Drainage behind you ends up in the Pecos River 20 miles east of Pecos. Drainage ahead of you ends up in the Rio Grande just east of the Big Bend National Park.

13.0 Elephant Mtn. El. 6230 ahead. Left of it and behind is Santiago Mt. El. 6521. Both of these are landmarks visible from quite a distance in any direction.

14.0 Cathedral Mt. El. 6860 ahead to the right. Another landmark. Left of it the large mass is Cienega Mt. El. 6850.

16.2 Road sign says Goat Mt. El. 6725 and you can see it through a notch, but the big one closer to you is Cienega.

16.3 Woodward Ranch 2 mi. to the right is fascinating to all, but an absolute must for rockhounds. All kinds of agate, labradorite, fire opals. Only place in the world that red plume agate and pom pom agate are found Big rock and gem store, largest west of Dallas. with samples from Mexico and all over. Camping, trailer park. Pick up your own agate for a price. Agate is formed when water percolates down through volcanic ash beds, dissolves silica and then deposits it in gas holes in the lava below. Impurities in the host rock give it distinctive colorations. Add 4.2 mi. if you make this side trip.

17.7 Roadside Park on left.

24.3 You are following down the Calamity Creek drainage The road you are on is 900 million years old, at least that’s the age of the Precambrian rock crushed into that reddish tan gravel. It comes from a gravel plant near Van Horn.

25.5 Bldgs. on the left, Neville Ranch. They had a silver fox ranch here in the early 30’s. Now you get a better idea of the size of Elephant Mtn. with its lava flow cap.

26.4 Roadside Park on left.

27.0 Ahead to the right is Crosson Mesa. El. 5000 ft. capped with lava.

30.6 The long flat-top mountain ahead is Nine Point Mesa.

34.5 You are driving over light gray sedimentary flaggy limestone and shale laid down under the ocean.

35.1 To the right of Nine Point are the Christmas Mountains and to the right of the road is Hen Egg Mtn. El. 4320 ft.

36.3 You’re on a poorly defined divide. Water to the left goes to Calamity Creek, Dog Canyon and Maravillas Creek to the Rio Grande. Fifty miles west is the mouth of Terlingua Creek which flows down on your right.

38.7 The near Mtn. ahead to the right is Butcherknife Hill. El. 4009, a basalt intrusive. We might mention a few other picturesque geographic names of the area - Smuggler’s Gap, Dagger Flat, Lefthand Shutup, Smallpox Spring, Whirlwind Springs, Dead Horse Mountains, Straddlebug Mountain, Rattlesnake Mountains, Fizzle Flat, Mule Ear Peaks, Dogie Mountain and Onion Spring. I like Pinks Peak.

43.3 Ranch 18 miles to the left belongs to Eugene Locke, formerly Deputy Ambassador to Viet Nam and candidate for Governor of Texas.

47.5 Christmas Mtns. ahead. Beyond them in the distance, 40 airline miles away are the Chisos Mtns. This log takes you to the center of them and just 2,000 ft. below the topmost peak.

48.5 Agua Fria Mtn. El. 4828 is ahead of you. Left of it is Hen Egg. El. 4320, then Packsaddle El. 4661.

62.2 Camels Hump to left.

74.1 Ahead to left, Willow Mtn. Ahead to right Bee Mtn. Both of intrusive basalt. Note the vertical jointing.

77.4 On the shoulder of Bee Mtn. Note the skyline mountain in the distance ahead. Left part of this is the Sierra Ponce in Mexico and the right part is Mesa de Anguila in the U.S. This is a fault scarp 1000 ft. high. If you can see the notch to the right of the peak in this scarp it’s Santa Elena Canyon between Mexico, and the U.S. Walls are 1700 ft., high enough for three Washington Monuments on top of each other. The Rio Grande runs through this canyon.

78.1 Intersection with Hwy. 170 (Camino del Rio) ahead to the right. When you take it, use Newell-Gulf Road Log No. 10N. We take Hwy. 118 ahead.

78.6 Study Butte (pronounced “Stoodie”) is the mountain to your left and the Diamond Shamrock Mercury Mine is below it.

There are five shafts. Ore is Cinnabar (mercury sulfide) in trachite. Mine opened many years ago, abandoned now. Ore was heated in a kiln, the mercury turned to vapor which was condensed as pure mercury and put into 76 lb. flasks. Activity in this area depends on the price which has ranged from $50.00 to $700.00 over the years. If you don’t plan to leave the park via the Camino del Rio through here and up the Rio Grande to Presidio and Marfa, at least get Newell-Gulf Road Log No. 10N and take the side tripover to Old Terlingua .A true ghost town with abandoned mercury mines. Population once 2000 now zero, site of the Great Chili War. It’s only 7 miles and you can read all about it in Newell-Gulf Road Log No. 10N.

81.3 Entrance to Big Bend National Park. El. 2500 ft. Books have been written about the Big Bend and it would be ridiculous to try to describe it in this log. Enough to say that in one National Park Area of 708,221 acres there are true deserts such as the one you are in now, mountain ranges, and also narrow canyons. Elevation ranges from 1850 ft. at Boquillas to 7835 ft. on Mt. Emory, with rainfall from 8 inches here up to 16 inches in the mountains. This means a wide range of climatic zones, each with its characteristic fauna and flora. Watch for the changes in vegetation as you climb. Desert flowers are fantastically beautiful after a rain. There are 850 kinds. The geology of the area is as complicated as the geography is rugged. Civilization has touched this area only at a few spots with roads and the very fine tourist facilities of the National Parks Concessions, Inc. The remainder is as wild as it was just a few years back when its remoteness was most appreciated by outlaws and other rough characters who preferred wide open spaces to tight closed jails.

A few cautions . . . The speed limit signs really mean what they say. Take it easy and enjoy the trip. Do NOT drive off the paved roads on an exploring trip. If you come to a water-flooded road dip just wait. It will go down soon. In case of trouble, stay with your car. Rangers patrol the area and will help you. Do not harm the living creatures, the vegetation or collect rock specimens. Preserve the park for those who will follow you.

82.3 Maverick Ranger Station. The Chisos Mountains are still 13 miles away airline. Since the National Park Service has done such a good job with roadside information signs, we’ll leave to them the names of most geographical features and elevations.

82.7 Below you to the left are the colored clays called the Painted Desert. These clays are 70 million years old. Dinosaur bones are found in them. You don’t need large sand dunes to have a desert. It’s usually defined as an area with less than 8” of rainfall a year and this part of the park qualifies. In fact it is part of the Chihuahuan Desert. At Alpine average rainfall is 16” a year and the climate has become steadily drier since you left 10.2 mi. on this log. Note well the vegetation along here so you can compare it to that as you ascend the Chisos, back up to 16” a year rainfall in a very short distance. Along here it is mostly creosote bush, lechugilla, and cactus. Here the evaporation from an open water surface (if there were one) is 96” a year, 12 times the rainfall.

84.2 Pick out Casa Grande, the square topped mountain near the center of the Chisos and down from it you’ll see the big notch between two mountains. This is called the window, and our destination, the Basin, is in there at the base of Casa Grande.

86.6 You’ll recall our mentioning the Mesa de Anguila at 77.4. This is the upthrust block west of the Park. East of the Chisos there ia another upthrust block which is the Santiago-Sierra del Carmen Mountains. The 40 mile wide area between, in which you are now driving, is a sunken block. The Chisos Mountains in the middle of this block is a great volcanic intrusion which, due to its hardness, now stands far above the weathered-away surrounding rocks. It is also a biologic island.

90.6 Castolon-Santa Elena Road Junction. This trip is a must before you leave the park area. A very scenic drive and you’ll see the historic Castolon Trading Post. You can go right up into the canyon.

100.3 Basin Junction. If you’re pulling a heavy trailer, go ahead to Panther Junction 3 miles to the -Gulf Service Station and Trailer Park and the Visitor Center. This is no area to fool around in with a partially filled gasoline tank, be sure to fill up now or before you leave the park. There is no gas station in the basin.

The Basin road is quite steep with sharp curves, not recommended for heavy trailers. We turn right up Green Gulch. Note that there is more grass here.

103.3 If they haven’t already, your ears should pop along here. Swallow or yawn. You’re now seeing some live oak and cedar.

105.2 Sharp U turn to the right. Take it slowly. The mountain is now forested, indicating increase in rainfall.

105.4 Panther Pass. El. 5800 ft. Highest point on the road. You are now entering the Basin.

106.3 The lower Basin with ramadas, camp ground, rest rooms is on your right. The Basin walls are extremely rugged, most evident early and late in the day when shadows show the relief. You can now see out the Window we told you about at 84.2.

106.5 Road Junction. We go ahead to the upper Basin where the National Park Concessions, Inc. facilities are located. There are three Gulf Service Stations in the Park: at Panther Junction, Castolon, and at Rio Grande Village on the east side.

106.7 Mt. Emory. El. 7835 with the shot tower is ahead of you. Highest point in the Park. fifth highest in Texas.

106.8 Curve around to the left to the Lodge, concession headquarters. Tell the folks there that Newell Oil Co. sent you. I hope you have a wonderful time. Relax, enjoy yourself and above all stay long enough to see the wonderful features of the Big Bend Park that are not on the main highway. When you leave the Basin get another Newell-Gulf Road Log, and when you get out to Hwy 90 at Marathon, Alpine or Marfa get another at a Gulf Station. There are logs for most of the main highways west of the Pecos.

This type of Road Log is unique and We’d like to know what you think of it. If you have time, drop a note or card to Newell Oil Co., Box 390, Alpine, Texas 79831 andgive us your opinion. We like to put these logs out but we have a problem letting people know that that are available. Will you please help us spread the word?

GET YOUR NEXT FREE ROAD LOG AT ANY

GULF SERVICE STATION IN WEST TEXAS

Copyright © W. J. Newell, 1968

Highways 67, 170 and 118

MARFA TO THE BASIN IN BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK VIA PRESIDIO AND CAMINO DEL RIO. 155 Miles.

These unique Road Logs are free to customers at NEWELL - GULF Service stations west of the Pecos. They cover most of the highways in West Texas.

0.0 AT THE SIGNAL LIGHT and Webb Bros. Gulf Station in Marfa. El. 4,690 ft. Pop. 3,000. Be sure to fill your gasoline tank at Webb Bros. It’s 60 miles to the next service station. They helped make these logs possible. Head south on Highway 67.

Record your mileage here and add it to the figures in the margin below to get your speedometer reading at any point. Allow some variation since speedometers vary and tire wear and inflation make a difference.

0.8 FORT D.A. RUSSELL TO YOUR RIGHT. Built for border protection in Pancho Villa times, it was a cavalry post. Also used for chemical warfare units and for a few prisoners of war during World War II. It was sold, and officer’s row on the hill became a residential area. Border Patrol headquarters for the area are here and warehouses are used to store cotton.

21.9 ROADSIDE PARK on right. El. of top of rise ahead, 5,440 ft., over a mile high. You are going through Frenchman Hills. Ahead of you are the Chinati Mts., El. 7,730 ft. The Davis Mts. are to the left and behind. Bounded by these, and running almost to Van Horn on the west, is what is called the Marfa Basin, an area of potential oil production. The volume and thickness - up to 16,000 ft. of marine sediments are capable of being source beds for oil, and reservoir rocks are present. In fact, the basin and its structures are similar to the Delaware Basin near Pecos which is so productive. More exploratory drilling is needed.

27.5 IN THE 1850’s the U.S. Army sent Lt. Echols into this Big Bend area with a herd of camels to determine their usefulness for army transport in the arid west. The project was broken up by the Civil War and the camels turned loose to roam. Caused some pretty frightened Indians. Would you believe an elephant?

34.7 LOOK AT THAT ROCK on your right after you pass it. There’s the elephant!

40.0 ENTERING SHAFTER, a ghost town with the ruins of the mill on left. Once the home of 1,500 people, the population is now about 25, most of whom live on Social Security checks. Read the legend on the historical monument. Milton Faver with his vast cattle herds had a more lasting effect on the area than Ben Leaton. The Catholic church in Shafter, built in 1896 is quite interesting.

40.5 ONE OF THE MINE SHAFTS AND DUMP. The Presidio Mine was opened in 1883 and operated almost continually until 1942. Eighteen million dollars of metal was produced, including 32,730,000 ounces of silver, 5,900 ounces of gold and some lead. Main shafts are west of the hill. Deepest workings are at 700 ft. and there are between 150 and 200 miles of underground passages.

42.0 NOTE on right palatial air conditioned apartment house. Research seems to indicate that this was a “recreation area” for the miners.

43.0 THE “TOWN” LAST FRONTIER on your left. About 4,000 lots were sold between the road and Castle Rock. Some of the promoters went to jail for using the mail for too enthusiastic a description of this city (?). However, desert living is a coming thing and Palm Springs, Calif. is drier than this.

43.5 ON YOUR RIGHT, CHINATI MOUNTAIN, El. 7,730 ft. there is a drop of 5,000 ft. from the top to the Rio Grande of which 3,500 ft. is in 3 miles. In the Chisos the drop is 5,000 ft. in 13 miles. In the Guadalupes, it is 4,500 ft. in 1-1/2 miles. On the outline of the Chinatis you can see Lincoln’s profile. At the right time of day it looks more like Lincoln than it does when you come by.

46.0 THE FAR MOUNTAINS arcing around from the left to the front to the right are in Mexico. The low one ahead is Ojinaga Mtn. The steep scarp to the right ahead is Sierra Grande rising 3,900 ft. above the Rio Grande.

You are on a bolson, a deep deposit of sand, gravel and wash which has come down from the Chinati Mts. to fill the valley. There are four pediments or terraces and you are on the top one.

PRESIDIO, pop. about 1,100 and intersection with

59.1 PRESIDIO AIRPORT on the left. Ahead on the right is a historical monument about Henry Skillman, early frontier character.

59.7 PRESIDIO, pop. about 1,100 and intersection with Hwy. 170 with a Gulf Dealer Station on your right. Since there are no service stations in the next 68 miles down No. 170, we suggest that you fill up and find out about Presidio. This town is famous as often the hottest spot in the U.S. but the humidity is so low that it’s a healthy heat. No one has ever had heat prostration or frostbite in Presidio.

The Presidio - Ojinaga area has as ancient a history as any part of the United states. Cabeza de Vaca came through here and found an Indian settlement in 1535. Espejo returned to Mexico by this gateway in 1583 after searching for lost missionaries in New Mexico. Juan Dominguez de Mendoza explored the area in 1684.

Ojinaga, named after a Mexican General, across the river from Presidio, is a spot you must visit. El. 2,750 ft., Pop. 8,500. It was a hot spot in the 1910-1914 revolution which was climaxed with a battle on Jan. 10, 1914 when Pancho Villa drove the 3,500 government troops and 1,000 women and children across into the United States where they were taken into custody by American troops, marched to Marfa and sent by rail to El Paso. This is the terminus of the famous Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad to the west coast of Mexico with both Pullman and diesel electric passenger trains on the most exciting rail trip you have ever taken. Canyons greater than the Grand Canyon of the Colorado in Arizona, mountains up to 11,000 ft., 72 tunnels, great food on the train. Less than 24 hours to the West Coast and round trip for several days including all but meals costs only about $75.00. Check the Big Bend Travel Agency in Presidio or Marfa for full information. They’ll take care of your car while you’re gone. In any case, don’t fail to cross into Ojinaga and look it over. It’s unspoiled by us Americans as yet. Try a meal at the fine new railroad station - fresh Pacific Ocean seafood.

0.0 LEAVE THE GULF STATION and head east on Hwy. 170. We’ve started the mileage over since your side trips may have the mathematics sufficiently confused by now.

1.1 CROSS THE SANTA FE RR which joins the Chihuahua al Pacifico RR in the center of the Rio Grande bridge to the right. The Santa Fe goes up Alamito Creek to Paisano Pass, Alpine, Ft. Stockton, and San Angelo. This is actually the shortest rail route from Kansas City to the West Coast.

2.5 THE PRESIDIO FLOOD PLAIN at right is irrigated from the river and 60 to 70 wells. Parts of it have been farmed for over 400 years. Cotton, feeds, cantaloupe, Persian melons are raised on about 6,000 acres. West of the Concho river which comes in from Mexico at Ojinaga, the Rio Grande is usually almost dry, the water having been taken out for irrigation near El Paso. The flow there is about 20,000 acre ft. per year compared to 550,000 acre feet below the Concho mouth. The word flood in flood plain is not used casually. Twice in the past 10 years there has been 8 to 10 ft. of water over that valley. Presidio gets only 8.39” of rain a year but it sure is wet the day they get it.

FREE - ROAD LOG - MARFA TO PRESIDIO TO BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK - FREE

3.5 FORT LEATON RUINS on your right are being restored as a state monument. Originally the Mission de los Julimes, built in 1684 by Padres with the Mendoza expedition bought by Ben Leaton in 1848 and made into a fort to protect his fields and cattle from the Indians. Ben traded with anyone. Some claimed he sold guns to the Indians and bought their stolen booty. Ben claimed that his influence with the Indians saved many settler’s lives. This was an important stopping point on the Chihuahua Trail which came north through here, then up Alamito Creek and eventually to the Texas coast. Silver and lead went north, hardware and frontier supplies came south. Very active 1848 to 1960. Fort Leaton was used by U. S. troops as a supply point and strong point in the Indian fights.

6.5 THE CABLE overhead carries a trolley to lower flow-measuring devices into the river.

10.0 THE RIO GRANDE is a remarkable river. Over 2,100 miles in length, it is fourth longest river in North America, exceeded in length only by the Mississippi-Missouri and the McKenzie-Peace and the Yukon in Canada. It rises in Southern Colorado on the Continental divide, at an elevation of 12,000 ft. For 1,300 miles it is the boundary between the United States and Mexico, the longest boundary river in the Western Hemisphere, and with one possible exception, the longest in the world.

At one point or another in its course, it is every kind of river - snow-fed mountain stream, desert stream, canyon-enclosed torrent, meandering coastal river. Very few world’s rivers irrigate as much country. From a time before recorded history, it has been the determining factor in the growth of civilization, bringing water to areas of need. Its location determined the location of Indian camps, of transcontinental travel, and of the earliest white settlements.

15.0 REDFORD, TEXAS, called Polvo (dust) by the Mexicans. Name from the red rock in the Rio Grande ford. A long town for its size.

18.0 THE VILLAGE OF MULATO is on your right in Mexico. You are in the Redford irrigation area.

25.6 WATCH FOR THE BALANCING ROCKS between the Highway and the river. Also the Smuggler’s Trail up the mountain to the left.

29.8 LOOK CLOSELY to the right for a narrow canyon opposite a road dip. This is variously called Poquito Canyon, Lost Canyon, Closed Canyon, or Eagle Crack. It’s worth a stop and a walk over into it. This canyon has been cut by erosion in the Santana Tuff, solidified fine grained volcanic material.

36.0 YOU ARE CLIMBING BIG HILL, also called Penacho Point. Road grad is 17%, steepest in Texas. This means that for each 100 ft. forward you go up 17 ft. or over 3 ft. per car length. Good picture location at the top.

37.5 RELAX, the Comanches have long gone and those teepees are just a Roadside Park.

43.6 FRESNO CREEK, the only one that has water almost all the time.

45.1 CONTRABANDO CREEK. From 1900 to 1930, smugglers were pretty active in both direction, across the Rio Grande. Wax and liquor (in goat bladders on burros to be bottled on this side) came north, manufactured goods went south. During the hoof and mouth quarantine, before any roads were built, a hardy band of river riders patrolled this area either on foot or by mule. You’ve seen some of their rock cabins.

50.3 LAJITAS (means flat rocks) TRADING POST on your right. Patronized mostly by Mexicans from across the river on account of the ford. Buildings to the west were occupied by U.S. troops during the Pancho Villa troubles. Pancho reportedly didn’t bother this area because it was too valuable to him as a supply point.

50.7 THAT GRADED AREA parallel to the road on the right is the Lajitas airport. About 1775 the Comanche Indians of northern Texas and Oklahoma discovered that northern Mexico was becoming civilized and turned their attention southward. At first it was horses they were after, later on slaves and cattle became the prize booty, as buffalo were being killed out. This continued 105 years with the peak year being 1845 when an estimated 10,000 head of livestock were plundered. The great Comanche War Trail, over 1,000 miles long, crossed the Pecos at Horsehead Crossing, came through Comanche Springs (Ft. Stockton) east of Marathon, through Persimmon Gap and flowed south in two branches east and west of the Chisos Mountains. The western branch crossed the Rio Grande at the ford at Lajitas, and went as far south as Durango. The full moon of September, which came to be known as the Comanche Moon was a time of terror until the frontier forts put an end to this “free trade” economy about 1880.

53.6 LARGE MOUNTAIN mass to the right is the Mesa de Anquila. California Mountain is to the left with old mercury mine workings on the slope.

53.9 THE CHISOS MOUNTAINS are in the far distance ahead. The Concessions area in the Basin is at the foot of Casa Grande Mtn. You can see its square top.

59.3 YOU CAN VISIT an old mercury mine to the left. Allow 4.4 mi. on the log if you do. The 30 minute easy walk through the mine costs $1.00, 50¢ for children, no climbing. Also a store and a few cabins.

62.6 ROAD TO OLD TERLINGUA on your left and I strongly recommend you look it over. Only 1.5 mi. round trip. A true ghost town, population was once over 2,000, now zero. First mining attempts in 1893, the big find was the Chisos Mine here at Terlingua and between 20 and 30 million dollars worth of mercury was produced up to 1946 when the mine was abandoned. Mexicans worked the mines 12 hours a day, 7 days a week, for a dollar a day with no safety considerations as the pitiful cemetery testifies. Note the commissary.

The Great Chili War was fought here in Terlingua on Oct. 21, 1967 and is renewed each October. Wick Fowler, noted Texas Character, was challenged by H. Allen Smith, famous humorous author who has adopted Alpine as his home. Over 500 chili heads flew in from all over the United states for the contest to decide which was World’s Champion Chili Cook. With the vote of the judges one for each contestant, the third judge declared that the chili had burned out his taste buds so the contest was declared a draw. A stupendous time was had by all present and our scouts inform us that most of them have now recovered from “chili mouth” and sides aching from two days of laughter. Allow 1.5 mi. on the log if you go to Terlingua.

63.8 EVERY CITY has its airfield and Terlingua is no exception. There it is on your right.

65.0 ON YOUR LEFT, the remains of the old 248 Mine.

65.8 CROSS TERLINGUA CREEK which flows into the Rio Grande at the mouth of Santa Elena Canyon. Odd little building houses a well drilled by the state Highway Dept. which is developing this spot as a highway camp.

67.1 HIGHWAY Y and we go right on No. 118. When you go north to Alpine on No. 118, use Newell-Gulf Road Log No. 9N.

67.6 STUDY BUTTE (pronounced “Stoodie”) is the mountain to your left and the Diamond Shamrock Mercury Mine is below it. There are five shafts, two active at 250-300 ft. Ore is cinnabar (mercury Sulfide) in trachite. Mine opened many years ago, abandoned after World War II, reactivated in 1966. Ore is heated in a kiln, the mercury turns to vapor which is condensed as pure mercury and put into 76 lb. flasks. Activity in this area depends on the price which has ranged from $50.00 to $700.00 over the years. It’s high now, about $550.00 per flask.

Copyright © W. J. Newell 1969

68.6 THE STUDY BUTTE GULF STA. AND STORE is just ahead. Groceries, Newell-Gulf Road Logs, supplies, camping area, old graveyard, spring water, cold drinks, and good conversation with Henry Moore. He knows the country and can answer your questions.

70.3 ENTRANCE TO BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK. El. 2500 ft. Books have been written about the Big Bend and it would be ridiculous to try to describe it in this log. Enough to say that in one National Park Area of 708,221 acres there are true deserts such as the one you are in now, mountain ranges, and also narrow canyons. Elevation ranges from 1850 ft. at Boquillas to 7855 ft. on Mt. Emory, with rainfall from 8 inches here up to 16 inches in the mountains. This means a wide range of climatic zones, each with its characteristic fauna and flora. Watch for the changes in vegetation as you climb. Desert flowers are fantastically beautiful after a rain. There are 850 kinds. The geology of the area is as complicated as the geography is rugged. Civilization has touched this area only at a few spots with roads and the very fine tourist facilities of the National Parks Concessions, Inc. The remainder is as wild as it was just a few years back when its remoteness was most appreciated by outlaws and other rough characters who preferred wide open spaces to tight closed jails.

A few cautions … The speed limit signs really mean what they say. Take it easy and enjoy the trip. Do NOT drive off the paved roads on an exploring trip. If you come to a water-flooded road dip, just wait. It will go down soon. In case of trouble, stay with your car. Rangers patrol the area and will help you. Do not harm the living creatures, the vegetation, or collect rock specimens. Preserve the park for those who will follow you.

71.3 MAVERICK RANGER STATION. The Chisos Mountains are still 13 miles away airline. Since the National Park Service has done such a good job with roadside information signs, we’ll leave to them the names of most geographical features and elevations.

71.7 BELOW YOU TO THE LEFT are the colored clays called the Painted Desert. These clays are 70 million years old. Dinosaur bones are found in them. You don’t need large sand dunes to have a desert. It’s usually defined as an area with less than 8” of rainfall a year and this part of the park qualifies. In fact, it is part of the Chihuahuan Desert. At Marfa, average rainfall is 16” a year and the climate has become steadily drier. Note well the vegetation along here so you can compare it to that as you ascend the Chisos, back up to 16” a year rainfall in a very short distance. Along here it is mostly creosote bush, lechuguilla, and cactus. Here the evaporation from an open water surface (if there were one) is 96” a year, 12 times the rainfall.

73.2 PICK OUT CASA GRANDE, the square topped mountain near the center of the Chisos and down from it you’ll see the big notch between two mountains. This is called the Window, and our destination, the Basin, is in there at the base of Casa Grande.

75.6 YOU’LL RECALL our mentioning the Mesa de Anguila at 53.6. This is the upthrust block west of the Park. East of the Chisos there is another upthrust block which is the Santiago-Sierra del Carmen Mountains. The 40 mile wide area between in which you are now driving, is a sunken block. The Chisos Mountains in the middle of this block is a great volcanic intrusion which, due to its hardness, now stands far above the weathered-away surrounding rocks. It is also a biologic island.

79.6 CASTOLON-SANTA ELENA ROAD JUNCTION. This trip’s a must before you leave the park area. A very scenic drive and you’ll see the historic Castolon Trading Post. You can go right up into the Canyon.

89.3 BASIN JUNCTION. If you’re pulling a heavy trailer, go ahead to Panther Junction 3 miles to the Newell-Gulf Service station and Trailer Park and the Visitor Center. The Basin road is quite steep with sharp curves, not recommended for heavy trailers. We turn right up Green Gulch. Note that there is more grass here.

92.3 IF THEY haven’t already, your ears should pop along here. Swallow or yawn. You’re now seeing some live oak and cedar.

94.3 SHARP U-TURN to the right. Take it slowly. The mountain is now forested,indicating increase in rainfall.

94.4 PANTHER PASS. El. 5800 ft. Highest point on the road. You are now entering the Basin.

95.3 THE LOWER BASIN with ramadas, camp ground, rest rooms is on your right. The Basin walls are extremely rugged, most evident early and late in the day when shadows show the relief. You can now see out the Window we told you about at 73.2.

95.5 ROAD JUNCTION. We go ahead to the upper Basin where the National Park Concessions Inc. facilities are located. Of course, they include a Newell-Gulf Service Station. Since you deserve the best, there are four Newell-Gulf Service stations in the Park: at the Basin, Panther Junction, Castolon, and at Rio Grande Village on the east side.

95.7 THERE’S THAT GULF STATION on your right. This is no area to fool around in with a partially filled gasoline tank. Be sure to fill up now or before you leave. Mt. Emory, El. 7835 ft. the Shot tower is ahead of you. Highest point in the Park, fifth highest in Texas.

95.8 CURVE AROUND to the left to the Lodge, concession headquarters. Tell the folks there that Johnny Newell sent you, and they’ll treat you just as well as if you hadn’t mentioned it. I hope you have a wonderful time. Relax, enjoy yourself and above all, stay long enough to see the wonderful features of the Big Bend Park that are not on the main highway. When you leave the Basin get another Newell-Gulf Road Log, and when you get out to Hwy. 90 at Marathon, Alpine or Marfa, get another at a Gulf station. There are logs for most of the main highways west of the Pecos.

This type of Road Log is unique and I’d like to know what you think of it. If you have time, drop a note or card to me - Johnny Newell, Box 390, Alpine, Texas 79830 and give me your opinion. We like to put these logs out but we have a problem letting people know that they’re available. Will you please help spread the word?

GET YOUR NEXT FREE ROAD LOG AT ANY

GULF SERVICE STATION IN WEST TEXAS